Palasë
The first beach you reach as the road drops down from Llogara Pass, Palasë is a long, open stretch of pale pebble and shingle backed by olive terraces and pine. It is also the landing zone for paragliders descending almost a kilometre from the pass above.
Development is still light here compared with its neighbours, so Palasë keeps a calm, spacious feel even in summer. The water deepens gradually and stays exceptionally clear.
Drymades
Just north of Dhërmi village, Drymades (Drimadhes) is a white-pebble beach fringed with olive and pine trees that reach almost to the water. It has long had a relaxed, slightly bohemian reputation, with simple beach bars and camping among the trees.
It is one of the most photographed beaches on the coast — the combination of turquoise shallows and a green tree line is hard to beat at sunset.
Dhërmi
Dhërmi is the liveliest of the northern Riviera beaches — a long curve of pale pebble below a hillside village of whitewashed houses and old stone churches. Beach clubs, tavernas and a summer music scene have made it a favourite with younger visitors.
Despite the buzz, the water remains crystal clear, and quiet coves sit just a short walk or kayak paddle in either direction. The sea cave known as the Pirate's Cave lies just offshore.
Jal (Jalë)
Reached by a winding road down from the village of Vuno, Jal is a pair of pebble coves with a youthful, easy-going atmosphere. Beach camps and simple guesthouses make it popular with backpackers and summer campers.
The two bays are separated by a low headland; the southern cove is quieter, while the main beach has the bars, sunbeds and boat trips along the coast.
Gjipe
Gjipe sits where a dramatic canyon meets the sea, and getting there is part of the appeal — a 20-minute walk down the gorge from a dirt parking area, or a short boat ride from Dhërmi or Himarë. The reward is a secluded, cliff-framed beach with no road access.
It is a favourite for wild camping, and the canyon walls above have become a small but growing rock-climbing spot. Bring everything you need; facilities are minimal.
Himarë
Himarë is a small coastal town with several beaches strung along its bays — Livadhi, pictured here, is the longest and most popular, while Spille and the old-town coves are quieter. The town has a distinct character and a long Greek-speaking community.
With tavernas, a working harbour and an easy pace, Himarë makes a comfortable base for exploring the surrounding coast and the hilltop castle of the old village.
Llaman
A short distance from Himarë, Llaman (Llamani) is a small, sheltered pebble cove backed by steep green hillside. It stays quiet even in peak season because of its size, and the water is a vivid, glassy turquoise.
There is usually a single small beach bar; otherwise this is a place to swim, snorkel and do very little. Arrive early if you want a spot in August.
Qeparo
Qeparo comes in two parts: a beautiful stone old village on the hillside, and a quieter beach settlement below. The pebble beach is long and uncrowded, edged by olive groves and a handful of family-run guesthouses and tavernas.
It is one of the more peaceful stops on the Riviera — a good choice for travellers who want clear water and a slow pace away from the busier resorts.
Porto Palermo
Porto Palermo is a wide, sheltered bay guarded by a castle on a small peninsula — long associated with the Ottoman-era ruler Ali Pasha of Tepelena. The protected water is calm and warm, making it one of the safest swimming spots on the coast.
The small pebble beaches around the bay are low-key, and the castle itself is worth the short walk for the views over the Ionian.
Borsh
At roughly seven kilometres, Borsh is the longest beach on the Albanian Riviera. Its sheer size means that even in high season you can usually find a quiet stretch of pebble to yourself, backed by one of the largest olive groves in the country.
Borsh has stayed relatively undeveloped and affordable, with simple tavernas serving fresh fish and local olive oil. A ruined castle on the hill above overlooks the whole sweep of coast.
Bunec
Bunec is a small, friendly pebble beach tucked into a gap in the cliffs between Borsh and Lukovë. A little freshwater stream meets the sea here, and the bay is shallow and sheltered — a good stop for families.
It is an easy, unpretentious place: a couple of tavernas, sunbeds, and clear water with a fine pebble bottom.
Ksamil
At the southern end of the Riviera, near the ancient ruins of Butrint, Ksamil is the coast's most famous beach — a cluster of small sandy bays facing four little islets you can swim or wade out to in calm water.
The turquoise shallows are stunning, but Ksamil is also the busiest and most built-up beach on this list. Visit in June or September, or arrive early, for the best of it. Boat trips run to the islets through the day.